some Guna Yala camping tips

1. There is no fresh water on the islands so bring plenty of water. If you have any water left when you leave, give it to someone (one of the boat guys will surely take it).
2. There isn't any wood. So you have to bring fuel for cooking. We had charcoal and a little butane burner. Sandwiches are kind of ideal.
3. Each island is looked after by a family or group of families. They collect the trash and generally look after things. While we were there a lion fish swam up to the beach and after everyone got a good look at it, the resident Guna family came and took it away. Lion fish are an invasive species that poses a threat to the Guna fishery and they are killed on sight throughout the islands.
4. As I mentioned above, garbage is collected. The garbage is collected but I'm not sure where it's taken and I will be honest here, I was afraid to ask. I did notice a lot of garbage in the mangrove when we were coming back to shore, and suspect that there is a dump somewhere there. All this to say, take it easy on the garbage. Really, people should have to take everything out that they take in. But sadly, Panama is not ready for rules like that.
5. It is hot. The ice in your cooler will melt in a day. I think you would need a block of ice for two nights. The best thing would be to minimize perishables.
6. Guna fishermen bring fresh fish and sea food to the islands to sell. (NOTE: the Guna fishery observes a self-imposed ban on crustaceans and shellfish in March and April). Also the local family will cook the fish for you. Make sure you have cash with you so can enjoy this.
7. I whined talked about music and generators in my last post. It's worth mentioning that holiday weekends are busy on the islands. If you're looking for peace and quiet go some other time, or specify your wishes to your boat driver. And if you do end up beside a stereo, remember, that's the sound of people having fun. I was feeling grumpy about some blaring musica tipica, but when I looked over the people were dancing. How can you hate on people who are dancing?
8. Watch out for coconuts. Don't set up your tent, or hang your hammock under a big cluster of coconuts. They will come down in the breeze and they are dangerous.
9. Sunscreen. Do not be fooled by breeze and clouds. You will be fried if you are not slathered in it. Swim shirts are great for kids who spend the entire day in the sand and water.
10. Be respectful. Guna culture is fascinating. The women's traditional dress is beautiful. There was a boat of Guna women and children heading out as we were coming back to the dock. They took my breath away, the cute babies and colourful molas. I didn't take a picture, it seemed inappropriate--they were just getting on with their day. Guna women charge for photographs ($2 I think). I've heard people complain about this. I think by charging money they set some boundaries. Clearly they don't want to be photographed without permission.

tips for taking a trip to Guna Yala

We're planning a camping trip to Guna Yala and I thought of a few useful tips that I didn't mention in my Guna Yala post.

• If you are going for the day, leave as early as you can. I think the prices are very fair, but you pay to enter the comarca, you pay to leave your car at the dock, you pay for the boat and finally, you pay to be on an island. Make a full day of it.
• The road to Carti is a winding, mountainous road. If you are prone to motion sickness you probably won't feel well. Come prepared.
• Bring your ID. If you are foreign, bring your passport and make sure your tourist visa is not expired. There is a SENAFRONT (border police) post before the dock at Carti.
• There are life jackets on the boats (all regular adult sizes, and some in better shape than others). But if you are traveling with small children, I would recommend bringing your own child-sized life jackets. 
• The boat drivers have snorkels to rent, but if you have your own bring them. Especially for kids--the snorkels on the boats are usually adult-sized and a little manky.
• Reef shoes are not necessary, but are excellent to have. My kids love their reef shoes and would not enjoy the beach, especially the Caribbean side, half as much as they do without reef shoes. 

beach days ahead

My kids finish school for the year next week. Here's hoping we get lots of nice beach days.

oh the beach

We went to the beach on Saturday and it was spectacular. The weather was amazing. We breakfasted on empanadas in Capira and ate them greasy and warm out of a brown paper bag. The tide was rising and the water was glittering and warm. A friend, entering the Pacific Ocean for the first time said, "It really is pacific isn't it?" We had sandwiches and cold beer. There were people all around us enjoying the day. Sometimes crowds at the beach can be annoying, but the people around us on Saturday were so joyful--they only added to the pleasure of the day. We stopped for pizza on our way home and we didn't get hung up in traffic (it was heavy but fluid).  Perfection.

when the cure is worse than disease

Not even the best holiday is without mishap: lost sandals, or a hole in the mosquito net, or noisy neighbours--there's usually some little thing.  Our lovely holiday was not without incident.  On Sunday, while in the water, my daughter was stung by jellyfish.  Not a little sting, some fairly large tentacles wrapped around her wrist--she must have stuck her hand through a mass.  Anyway, it was painful and big--we've only dealt with much smaller stings in the past.  I had some antihistamine cream in my bag for just such an occurrence and was calmly applying it to my poor, whimpering  girl, when our boat driver came over to see what was the matter.  He said, lime, we need to put lime on it and he went off to find a lime.  I had a twinge of misgiving, but I let him put the  lime on her arm when he dashed back.  The lime did seem to soothe the sting and soon we were back on the boat looking for whales.

We continued to treat the sting with the antihistamine cream and it seemed to help, but it was strangely red, and by Monday night quite swollen.  On Tuesday morning it was blistering and very painful.  I knew it was the lime, as I recalled a friend's mysterious rash turning out to be the result of lime juice and sun exposure.  Google confirmed this; it's called phytophotodermatitis.  The reaction is not the same for everyone and my daughter's was definitely extreme. After a trip to the dermatologist and pharmacy,  she is doing much better.

actually quite improved this morning

 You might well wonder why I let the boat driver put the lime juice on my daughter's arm.   And honestly, I wish I had stopped him.  But, I let him. because I respect local knowledge.  He was not wrong, the lime did soothe the sting but combined with sunlight it was not a good idea.

A couple of years ago my husband developed a strange swelling on his leg.  Our nanny at the time, saw it and said with conviction, that's a torsalo (botfly).  My husband went to a doctor (two in fact) and was told it was an infected, ingrown hair.  He was prescribed antibiotics and sent on his way.  The swelling did not go away, in fact it became more painful and bigger.  When he was seeing an orthopedist about his sore knee, the orthopedist saw the swelling and said, that's a torsalo.  By this time the larvae was large and very painful to remove.  If we had listened to our nanny, my husband could have been saved a lot of pain.  And that is probably why I let the boat guy put lime juice on my daughter's arm.  I really don't know what I will do next time I am faced with folk wisdom.

Pretty Pedasí

We spent the weekend in Pedasí.  There are many beautiful places in Panama, but this would definitely be in my top three. along with Bocas and Islas Perlas.

My internet research said that it was a four hour drive from Panama city, but that's pretty optimistic.  There's a lot of road construction between Divisa and Las Tablas and with a snack and stretch stop, it was more like five hours.  When the new divided highway is finished it will be four hours, but it's not right now.  The drive back was more like six hours, stopping for lunch and with horrible, heavy, Sunday afternoon, traffic between Coronado and the city.

Apart from the longish drive, (really not so long, but longer than we expected) we had an amazing time.  The town of Pedasí is really cute and the people are friendly.  There's a nice bakery and plenty of little restaurants.  Friday night, the central plaza was full of kids of all ages playing what looked to be prisoner's base.  We found the town to be very pleasant.  We didn't stay in town although there are a lot of little hotels that looked nice.  We stayed just out of town, closer to the beach.

Our bed and breakfast was sweet, clean and comfortable and not (for a change) overpriced.  The owner was nice and helpful (he brought us a bodum of coffee to have on the back porch while we waited for the girls to wake up).  We walked down to Playa del Toro when we first arrived.

We were on a rocky stretch of the beach, but we could see that it was sandier in the other direction.  There were sand dunes that we raced and slid down.

It wasn't the best spot for swimming, but pretty and fun in other ways (and I'm sure it was sandier further down).  One little girl I know did not want to go back to the hotel even though it was getting dark and buggy.

On Saturday we went to Isla Iguana.  Isla Iguana is a short boat ride from Pedasí.  The island has a pretty beach and some great snorkeling.  It's nice for kids because you don't need to snorkel from a boat, the reef is just right there.  The water is clear and as calm as a swimming pool.  We saw lots of fish and coral.  We walked across the island to another small beach.  From this little beach we walked along the rocky coast back to the main beach.  Along the way, we poked around in some tidal pools and found a big trilobite and a spotted sea snake.  We also saw the Frigate bird colony, which no photo could possibly do justice (everywhere you look there are birds in the air and in the trees).  There are incredible volcanic rock formations and coral beaches.

On our last morning we took a boat out to see if we could see some whales.  We did  see a pair of hump backs and couple of young whales.  We didn't get close enough for great photos, but getting to see them at all was thrilling.  We also got to see some sharks and a sail fish.  We stopped back at Isla Iguana to avoid the rain.  The girls got back in the water and some local fisherman shared some fresh caught fish with us.

The trip was a big success.  We didn't have time to go to nearby Playa Venao or Isla Caña.  A return trip is already in the works!

another sunny Sunday

We got up early and headed out for breakfast at our favourite breakfast joint.  We had a yummy breakfast and then had to go back home and get shoes for the person who had earlier gotten into the car (to go to a restaurant!)  barefoot.  And then we were off, across the bridge, and on our way to the beach.

It was sunny and beautiful.  There were quite a few people around, but it was far from crowded.  Pony rides were had, books were read, and sandwiches were eaten.  It was a glorious day.

all-inclusive

The kids had a week off school (a break between terms) and we wanted to do something fun and get out of town.  We had some travel points on the credit card so we decided to try one of the all-inclusive places.  We usually rent some kind of cabin at a quiet, less popular beach and cook for ourselves.  We usually avoid the crowds.  We like adventures and to be off the beaten path.  We'd never been to an all-inclusive before and the kids were excited; I decided it was a different kind of adventure and was determined to go into it with an open mind.

When we arrived, the lobby was crowded and there was a pre-registration line (they gave you a number, like at the meat counter).  Somehow, when I saw all those people my mood plummeted and all my negative ideas about resorts came rushing in (so much for an open mind).  We had to wait more than an hour.  I tried to shake my mean mood, but I felt miserable.  How was I going to handle lining up with all these people for the next three days?  I knew I was being awful and petty, but I couldn't stop; I think the reality of the all-inclusive was hitting me a little hard.  When we finally got into our ground level (basically basement)  room (this did not cheer me up) I knew needed to do something or I was going to poison my kid's holiday.  I grabbed my runners and ipod and ran the curmudgeon out of my system.  Running relaxes me and honestly, once I got out on my own, I couldn't help but notice how pretty the place was.

We had a nice time.  We read and chatted and napped.  The kids swam and swam.  It was relaxing and really one of the laziest holidays we've ever had.  We didn't do any hiking or snorkeling or anything more strenuous than walk from our room to the pool.  It was good.

I have to admit that I didn't really like the food.  It was all that kind of chicken fingerish, generic, industrial kitchen, kind of food.  I understand that there probably is no other way to feed that many people.  I am not very tempted by food prepared by people in surgical masks and plastic aprons.  Although I'm sure it's all very sanitary, I do not equate hairnets with yummy.  But there was always fresh fruit so I didn't complain (too much).

It was fine for three days, but not not my favourite beach trip.  My kids might tell you different though, they really liked it.

Costa Rica

We went to Costa Rica for the Easter long weekend.  We lived in Costa Rica for four years; my younger daughter was born there.  It always feels a bit like coming home after we cross the border at Paso Canoas.  Costa Rica really is just as beautiful as everyone says.

We spent a couple of days in San Isidro enjoying the company of old friends, and then we drove down to the beach.

It was good to be there.

beach bliss

We spent the long weekend in Costa Rica.  I'm planning a full post when all the laundry is done...

I scan the horizon for you, Mimi

We had a quick overnighter at the beach on the weekend.  It wasn't the greatest place; overpriced and only okay.  We needed to get away though, first-day-of-school anxiety was making an insomniac of my sixth grader.  The beach was the best remedy I could think of.

She reread all her Judy Blume books in the weeks before school started.  We chatted about  puberty and popularity.  Me, paddling madly beneath the surface, keeping my head up, maintaining a calm, effortless, buoyant, composure.  She's wading in and it scares me a little.

When I run, I often repeat the mantra, "step lightly" and sometimes just the word "light."  I think of it often when I'm talking with her; how important it is to not slam down on her with the full force of my own anxiety and fear.  light.  light.  light... 

The Beach

Playa Santa Clara, Panama

We love the beach.  Like connoisseurs of sashimi or oysters, we like the beach unadulterated.  To me, resorts are like mayonaise spoiling a perfectly lovely piece of fish.  I have nothing against resorts (or mayonaise); I just prefer the beach without them. 

When we lived in Costa Rica, we spent every weekend at the beach.  We lived near a long stretch of pristine beach that has pretty much spoiled us for any other beach.   We would load the car with lunch and dinner, beach chairs, boogie boards, and kayak and we would spend the day, leaving only after the sun had set.  We shared these weekends with an amazing group of friends.  Those really were the best of times, and are the source of some of our fondest memories.

at the beach in Costa Rica (Esterillos Oeste)

Of course my children adore and exult in the beach; nobody gets the beach the way kids do.  My children arrive at the beach, throw open the car, and inhale (it's like some kind of primal homecoming).  It seems criminal to deprive them of this, and we try to get to the beach as often as we can.

When we first moved to Panama, one of our first questions for new acquaintances was, "Where do you go to the beach?"  The answer was never very satisfactory, either they didn't like the beach (?!) or they'd recommend a resort.  We started to wonder if there were any good beaches in Panama.  Turning to the internet, I found a great site that catalogues our kind of beach (Almanaque Azul) and we've been exploring all kinds of beaches since.  Last Sunday, we discovered a beach that meets all of our criteria (shade, no quads, no jet skis, no resort).

Playa La Ermita, Panama

Playa La Ermita is one of the last beaches in the province of Panama.  The entrance for this beach is at the first pedestrian bridge after the town of El Higo.  When we turned off the highway there was a police checkpoint, (they were checking for guns and hard liquor) and a couple of nice ladies collecting an entrance fee for the municipality (I don't mind paying this kind of thing at all--I applaud and support communities that look after and take pride in their beaches).  After two and  half kilometres of roughish gravel, the road divides; take the left road down to the beach.  At the beach there's a couple of restaurants (we had a packed lunch so we didn't stop).  There were two buses parked at one end of the beach, we just went the other way--there was plenty of room for everyone. We found a nice shady spot and settled in for the day.

The day was spectacular.  The beach was nice and clean and not crowded at all.  There is quite a large estuary that seemed popular with the local people.  The beach is quite steep going down to the water, but we didn't notice a big drop off in the water.  The kid-sized waves were perfect for playing in, and my youngest could not bear to be out of the water.  It did look like there was a surf break at the far end of the beach, but I didn't check it out.

After eating and walking and lots of playing, we left at three, hoping to beat the traffic.  The traffic back to Panama on a Sunday can really spoil the relaxing effects of the beach.  Thankfully our tactic worked, and we had a nice drive back to the city.  All in all, a marvelous day!  

Sunny Sunday

On Sundays we like to get out of town.  If we don’t get out of town, my kids start asking to go to the mall.  The mall on Sunday makes me feel like a loser.  Really, the mall, as a Sunday outing, depresses me.  Luckily for me, my kids are still young enough that they can be forced tricked persuaded into adventure.

On Saturday, I told the girls that we would be climbing a mountain, and then going to the beach (without the the promise of the beach it’s unlikely I’d get them up the mountain).  I told them we’d have to leave earlyish, and that they could sleep in their hiking clothes and eat breakfast in the car.  In this way, we managed to leave the house by nine without whining or complaints.

breakfast!

The morning was lovely; the kids were content.  The start of a road trip always makes me feel so good, and really, it was very satisfying to have gotten everyone out of the house so effortlessly.

We were headed to a national park called Altos de Campana.  This park is an hour's drive out of the city.  We arrived just after ten and met some birders on their way out.  Those birders were probably grateful that we (chattering children in tow) are earlyish, rather than early on Sundays.

The park has a few different trails, and we had hiked the short Podocarpus trail in December, when it was much too wet to attempt anything steep.  This time we planned to hike "La Cruz," a trail that goes up to a cross on a rocky peak.  The, not very informative map, said it was an hour's hike. 

The trail is quite steep, but totally manageable.  The temperature was cool and comfortable for hiking.  

Everything went very well until we came to a fork in the trail.  There was no fork in the trail on the map.  What to do?  Continue straight up, or head down a washed out path with some broken and bent handrails?  We decided to continue up; it seemed to us that if we were going to the top, we needed to go up.  The trail got steeper and muddier.

After about fifteen minutes of climbing, we got to the top.  There was no cross, and the view was through the trees, and worst of all, it was very wet.  This was not the great picnic spot we all had been imagining.   We took a few pictures and turned around.  

So, as you may know, going down, is a lot harder than going up a steep, muddy, mountain trail.  After my daughter slipped flat on her butt the second time, she started to scream.  Not crying, although there was that too, but unrestrained, furious screaming.


"I hate you!  I hate this!  You are the worst parents!" 


She totally lost it.  Now, I'm not a stupid or mean person, but my reaction to her was not exemplary.  I pretty much bullied her down the mountain.  Thank goodness her patient father was there, because I was not being very nice.  Oddly, on this fraught stretch of trail we saw some kind of trogon (really,  the only wildlife we saw). 


We arrived back at the fork in the trail.  It was reasonably dry and flat so we set out our picnic.  We had sandwiches and apples and rocky road bars.  I thought the marshmallows would make the nuts more appealing to my seven-year old (totally wrong about that).

As we finished eating I noticed my recently crying daughter smiling contentedly.  Yeah, she's a gangly, growing, eleven-year-old girl WHO NEEDS TO EAT!  sometimes I am so thick.  The whole tantrum on the trail situation could have been averted with a cookie. 
  
Suddenly some hikers popped up from the descending trail and sure enough, that was the trail to "la Cruz."  Well now we know for next time (I didn't even try to make them keep going--even though I would have liked to).  

We headed back to the car and on to the beach.  We went to Playa Santa Clara.  There are other beaches that are nearer, but this is where we usually go.  We take the public entrance  at Las Sirenas.  It's not too busy at that end of the beach, but you need to bring your own shade and provisions.

We had an excellent afternoon messing around.  Apart from a couple of entitled jerks on quads, it was an idyllic afternoon.  Way better than the mall!