How not to be a sweaty mess (from someone who's totally been there)

hot in the city

Of course a tank top and shorts are perfect for this climate, unfortunately they are not proper for all situations. For example, my kids' school has a sign at the entrance reminding parents to dress appropriately (no gym clothes etc..) when entering. I wouldn't say Panama is particularly conservative in dress, but there are definitely expectations and people notice. People here look well turned out: shirts pressed, shoes polished. I have found this equally charming and intimidating. As a foreigner there's a certain amount of leeway(people will kind of expect you to be a slob) but it's never fun to feel underdressed or worse, like a sweaty mess.

Being a teacher, and having to attend functions as a parent I've figured a few things out. I know I will never be as elegant and fabulous as Panamanian woman and I'm totally okay with that--frankly, it looks like way too much work. It's possible that this list will seem really obvious. But honestly, having grown up in Canada, I didn't know. Also, I suspect I'm sweatier than normal people. So keeping that in mind, here are a few things I've learned about dressing in the heat:

• a sundress with a light short sleeved cardigan is a great combination for any event. You can take the cardigan off if you need to walk somewhere or if you're outside. It will give you some protection from frigid air conditioning. You can put it on if you don't want to show too much skin. Also, the cardigan will cover any pit stains. 
• Chinos are more comfortable than jeans. I find they need to be pressed, but it's worth it because they are light and they look good.
• Get a pedicure. It's cheap here. And you won't look like a total slob in your flip flops at the school open-house (where all the other mothers will be in heels).
• If you have to walk even just a block, you will arrive sweaty. There's a small window of opportunity before the sweat transfers from your body to your shirt--my strategy is to duck into the bathroom and take my shirt off and blot myself dry and put the shirt back on. It sounds like a long procedure, but it only takes a couple of minutes and it really helps. 
• Light cotton with a print is your friend. It dries quickly and the print won't show sweat.
• Tissue tees and silk seem like a good idea because they are so light, but they never work for me. The slightest dampness shows and if you're really sweaty it will be horrifying.
• Carry a shawl in your handbag. The air conditioning in some places can be brutal. Movie theatre are particularly bad (you might even want a sweater for going to the movies).

5 years

my babies five years ago exploring on the caribbean side

We've lived in Panama exactly five years. It's the longest we've lived anywhere.  And we are settled--house, work, pets, school--the full catastrophe. I think this is it, at least until the girls finish school. I never imagined Panama in my life, and now my children are growing up here. Does life ever work out the way you expect it too? 

Five years ago we arrived here hungry for some city life after a couple of years of small-town living in Costa Rica. My kids did dance classes, and art classes, and swimming lessons--it was a feast after a famine.  Beside the classes, I have very fond memories of exploring the city with my girls (then 3 and 7) in the weeks before school started. Every day was an adventure, from the supermarket to the Smithsonian marine exhibit. This is probably why I love this city as much as I do-- along with beauty, we encountered kindness and good humour every where we went.  Also, we spent every evening in a very pretty park, where the girls quickly made friends and played wild, convoluted games of tag that went on for hours. It was  as easy a transition to a new country as could be imagined or desred.

The first blush is off my initial infatuation with Panama. I've seen the grubby and mean side of it. But I still love it. And there are lots of places I haven't seen, and this city still holds surprises. I am pretty sure I can be happy here for years to come.

the beach and some rambling thoughts on the day

On Sunday we went to the beach. It was hot and sunny and perfect. The beach was predictably busy for a summer long weekend.  And traffic out of the city on Sunday morning was unpleasant and slow. But despite traffic, and crowds (and searching for parking in our usually quiet spot) it was lovely and relaxing the way the ocean always is. Toes buried in hot sand, watching my husband and kids goof around in the water is is pretty much the most soothing activity I can imagine. I didn't even read, I was mostly just still, half watching and half sleeping. It was hard to leave such perfect, drowsy, contentment and we dragged our feet (and the cooler) back up to the car.

The traffic was predictably bad on the way home. Thankfully we didn't see any accidents and it was slow but steady. We listened to the radio, to a program about January 9th. January 9th is Día de los Mártires (Martyrs' Day) in Panama. It commemorates the 1964 riot. Until I heard this radio program, I hadn't actually known it was a riot. I knew there had been an incident with the Panamanian flag in the Canal Zone and some students had been killed, but I'd never heard the details before. It was shocking frankly and it made for a very thoughtful ride home (here's a god summary of the events).

So while it was a slow drive home it was informative. It's certainly not the first time I contemplated Panama before 1999 (when the canal was reverted to Panama). But the image of students climbing a wall to plant their flag, and the chilly arrogance of the Americans in the Canal Zone (and yes I am aware that institutional racism and segregation were status quo in 1964) was compelling. I would love to see this story told from a few angles; including: the presidents (Chiari and Johnson), the diplomats and the American students and their families. Oh, and the military... Is there a movie? I don't think so. There should be a movie.

It would be interesting to see the American Colonial period in Latin America depicted in film. I used to think about this when we lived in Costa Rica. The dilapidated luxury of the Zona Americana (the former enclave of the United Fruit Company) in Quepos used to fascinate me (the country club splendor of the old tennis courts and swimming pool seemed so at odds with the grubby town at the foot of that hill).  Has anyone made a film about this, or set a novel in  a "zona Americana" of the 1950s and early 60s? I know that there are so many stories that don't get told but this seems like a gaping hole.

up the Chuqunaque

Today's post is a guest post by my twelve-year-old daughter. On Monday, she went with her father to an Embera-Wounaan community to observe the closing meeting of a program that studied the effects of climate change in the region. This is her report:

My experience in Darien was pretty amazing. Other than a long,wet, and bumpy ride, I actually learned a lot and had fun. We started the trip by walking up at 5:30 in the morning  and then after driving about one hour and a half we stopped at a little rancho and had a delicious Panamanian breakfast. Then we stopped to buy some snacks, and after that we were off. We went to the comunity by piragua (canoe) on the Chucunaque river.

When we got there, we were greeted by one of the native ladies. My dad had told me to get painted with special ink made from berries they grow, so I decided, why not? and I got an Embera design on my arm (not on my face even though they offered). 

The meeting was kind of being delayed so they decided to serve the food, (it was delicious) I chose some barbecued  chicken with a side order of bollos torro, and bodochi.Then the meeting finally started.

I went to the meeting, and saw the UN representatives, and some of the people from different indigenous groups. They indigenous people’s leader told us how the change in climate was affecting their lives because of the increase of water to the river causing much flooding. This made me think of how terribly we were treating our planet, and kind of left me wanting to help. Some girls from the Embera Wounaan tribe did two dances that were very beautiful.

Ironically after this meeting the weather changed and it started raining, everyone ran to their piraguas, to go home.

The ride back was nice, but I fell asleep most of the ride. It is a very odd feeling being surrounded by nature, and then waking up to the city all lit up. Like this was my first time in Darien I left with a very good impression of the place, and people.

another November holiday (the last one)

The beach was cloudy and rainy. We didn't get a full day. But the sky was spectacular.

November is winding down. Today is the last patriotic holiday of the month of November. Today Panamanians celebrate their independence from Spain (1819). They also celebrate the formation of the first fire department. This morning while I was running, the cacophony of fire trucks parading down Via Brasil drowned out the music on my ipod. The sound of the sirens alarmed me for second, but then I remembered the date, and there was really no mistaking that noise as anything but joyful.

We had a late brunch and spent the afternoon studying and cleaning the turtle tank among other chores. Later we'll brave the crowds and go see a movie. Happy Feet 2 with one daughter and Breaking Dawn with the other. Although I'm not a huge fan of the Twilight franchise, I am grateful my husband is taking the dubbed penguin movie. It's been a perfect holiday Monday, leisurely but not entirely unproductive.

Water, water, every where...

Well we have water now. It's just not fit for consumption. The water coming out of the tap is brown, and yesterday the Ministry of health recommended boiling and straining it.

Panama went through a similar water crisis last year and at the time, the government made a big show of taking measures to solve the problem. Positions were created and a lot of money was thrown around. So it's frustrating to be in the same situation this year.

Because of the canal, Panama has a lot of money. The city's skyline is impressive and the president likes to tell foreign dignitaries that Panama is the Dubai of Latin America. But the ineptitude of the public officials in charge of critical services like health, education and water is astonishing.

I am a believer in tap water. I was so happy four years ago when we arrived in Panama, and I learned that the tap water was safe, and that bottled water wasn't even that common. I've argued with my husband about getting a home filtration system. My feeling has been that if everyone drinks tap water, the quality will have to be maintained. It is our civic duty to insist on quality water for everyone. But I am wavering. This latest crisis, and the fact that the government is looking to loosen regulation on groundwater contamination, have me less certain. I have misgivings, but maybe it is time we get a filtration system.

out of water

Luckily, we didn't have to resort to the water in the turtle tank.

On Saturday morning, enjoying my coffee in bed and (luckily) reading the local paper, I discovered that the water was being shut off for work on the metro. I dashed down to fill some buckets (the thought of unflushed toilets in tropical heat got me moving fairly quickly) and pots in the kitchen. The pressure was already low and it was so lucky that I realized when I did. Shortly after I filled the buckets, the water went off completely. The paper said 14-16 hours. I was not worried; I had filled enough containers. I even went for a run Saturday night expecting that the water would be back on by eleven.

The water was not back at eleven or twelve. I had a sponge bath and thought about how excellent my shower would be in the morning. There was no water in the morning. There was no water at noon. By about two there was a trickle of water downstairs. My buckets were empty, the bathrooms were stinky and everyone in my house was getting grumpy (showering and good humour are definitely connected in this climate). We refilled the buckets from the trickle and resigned ourselves to the situation.  Finally, there was enough water to shower at four. There are some areas that got water even later and the pressure is quite low even today. 

Because of these water problems the Education minister cancelled classes today. So my girls are home enjoying a unexpected day off (the most delicious kind). The water authority announced this morning that the continuing shortage was due to an increase in consumption as people filled their reserve tanks. This is not a very satisfactory explanation and the comments in the paper were good. Oh I see, it's our fault there's no water... what do you think we are stupid?! 

The water pressure is low and it's even lower than it was this morning. There seems to be some problems at the water treatment plant. Last year the city had water shortages in December and January because of a problem at the treatment plant. I hope we are not headed back into a situation like that. I also hope that there's school tomorrow because I love my kids, but by tomorrow they will be bored and bickering. And that is possibly even worse than a smelly toilet.

the skirt

When we first moved to Panama I became aware of la pollera sitting in a photo studio with my family waiting to have our pictures taken for immigration documents. I thought it rather curious that teenage girls and newlyweds would have their portraits taken in traditional costumes. I said to my daughter, "it must be a thing here." I had no idea. A couple of weeks later, when I was looking at the list of school supplies, there between the crayons and rulers was pollera (for girls and straw hat for boys).

The Panamanian elementary curriculum includes a weekly folklore class. In the lower grades they learn the dances and in the higher grades they study the stories and costumes as well as dance. By now we've been through a couple of sizes of pollera and I've had the opportunity, in the last four years, to familiarize myself with the local traditions. But I am far from an expert, and when my daughter joined the folklore ensemble at school I was a little intimidated. And when I saw the list for her costume I was frankly terrified.

Tonight's the big, anual performance and we (miraculously) have everything on the list. We also have a friend from my husband's office coming to help me dress her (it's complicated--especially the hair). My daughter will be wearing la pollera montuna ocueña. And I'm pretty sure I couldn't be prouder.

For more information about Panama's traditional pollera check out this site:
The Pollera of Panama

Fiestas Patrias

The patriotic holidays start today here in Panama. My girls are home from school until next Monday. Tomorrow we will go to the school bright and early to salute the flag. My daughter will dress in the typical costume and sing patriotic songs with her classmates on the stage. This kind of patriotism is very foreign to me. I love my country (Canada) but I did not grow up with obligatory public acts of patriotism. I find these ceremonies moving and fascinating.

On November 3rd Panamanians celebrate their independence from Colombia and on November 28th their independence from Spain. The whole month of November is designated as patriotic (mes de la patria). People attach flags to their cars and decorate their houses. There are five days off in the month of November. Many people take advantage of all these holidays and go to the beach. I'm hoping we'll get out to the beach ourselves this long weekend.

Happy Birthday Panama!

I love you but...

This morning I had to go up town to pick up my new ID.  As we drove into the heart of the city where the public offices are, I was reminded of my first impression of Panama and the infatuation I felt.  Before my husband took his job here, my daughters and I came with him to check it out while he went to some meetings.  We explored the city, hopping in and out of taxis, going from park, to movie theatre, to bookstore.  We had a great time.  I was delighted with Panama, but it wasn't the city that captivated me, it was the people.

It was the Panamanian accent, and the 'tu' instead of 'usted.'  From easygoing and quick-to-laugh taxi drivers, to the friendly kids in the park, I fell in love.  And I still love this place and the people.  This morning, after some banter with a civil servant and then the joking between the guy watching the parked cars and the guy with photocopy business in the back of his van, I thought, I still have a big crush on these people.  Then of course we turned on the radio to hear to a couple of pundits talking about the latest political scandal.  And there's the rub.

I love this country but I am alarmed and dismayed by its politics.  Corruption is taken for granted and there is no evidence that anyone in public office has any real concern for the people of this country.  When I got home the first article I read was this.  How can I conscionably live in a place that treats its children so badly?  It's like being in love with someone who's beautiful and fun but totally destructive.  You know, one of those people who has to hit rock bottom before they can get their life together.  I hope, for the sake of the people of this country, that there is no rock bottom in Panama's near future.  I hope, but I wish I felt more optimistic.

dengue fever

The above photos were taken a couple of blocks from my house; it is the backside of a public school.   There has been an increase in cases of hemorrhagic dengue (which can be fatal) in Panama this year.  The number of reported cases varies between sources and honestly I have very little faith in the health authorities to count and report accurately.  My husband was diagnosed with dengue a couple of months ago, but the doctor didn't actually do a blood test to confirm it so I'm sure it wasn't reported to health officials.  I'm guessing the numbers we are seeing reported are low.  In any case, the outbreak has resulted in a great deal of public discussion about garbage, which is a serious problem in this city.

There are much uglier examples of heaps of garbage that I could have used to illustrate this post (we drove through 'El 24' last week and yikes!).  But the above garbage makes me angrier than most of the other garbage.  Yesterday, public health officials exhorted the population to get rid of sites condusive to mosquito breeding.  There has been a wide program of fumigation all over the city.  Meanwhile, trash is being thrown over the wall at a public school.

My kids' study the Panamanian curriculum in social studies.  The same text books are used in the whole country.  Last week my second grader was studying "the rainy season."  A big part of the unit on the rainy season was about garbage, and how important it is to deal with garbage responsibly because of dengue and as a cause of flooding (trash plugging storm drains).  This is taught in the second grade all over the country including the school in the above picture.  It seems incredibly ineffective to teach kids that they need to deal with garbage responsibly when the school itself does not.  Not even mentioning the fact that they are breeding mosquitos behind their school.

I don't know what it will take to get people to smarten up about garbage.  The municipalities have a lot of room for improvement in the area of garbage collection.  But people also really have to stop throwing garbage over walls, and into creeks, and on empty lots.  Hopefully this current outbreak of dengue opens  people's eyes.

clouds over Casco

We didn't make it to the beach this weekend but we got over to Casco Viejo for a walk.  We really never tire if it; there's always a building or alley we hadn't noticed before.  The clouds were very dramatic but we didn't get rained on.  It's my rule that we go somewhere that is not the mall on Sunday.

But it's a miracle I got out of the house at all this weekend.  I started reading A Song of Ice and Fire a couple of weeks ago and I am so caught up in it.  I kind of avoid this kind of thing because I know myself, and I am like an addict with a good fantasy series--I cannot stop until it's done and everything else takes a backseat to the books.  I skulk off at every opportunity to read; it is shameful and not very adult.  I begged off The Smurfs because of laundry, but really I just saw it as an opportunity to read.  Anyway I'm totally loving it--I was just thinking I should get book four loaded onto the kindle so it's all ready for me when I get home from teaching tonight.

when the dog bites

I am not particularly afraid of dogs.  When I walk home from school with my girls we pass several houses with dogs.  I've often been surprised by how many people here have two or three dogs in their backyards, and I assume it is for security.  There is one house that we pass that has three or four dogs in the backyard (I can't tell exactly how many because they are a just a seething, snapping mass of fur when we pass) that bark and growl hysterically at us every single day.  They are remarkably unpleasant, and I have never doubted that they would bite given the chance.  It is hard not to speculate  about people who keep a pack of clearly aggressive dogs in their backyard.  And I have often wondered about the inhabitants of this particular house.

The house is a little shabbier than the other houses on the street, and through the window, an older lady can be seen in an overstuffed chair watching TV.  There is a table beside her heaped with laundry or linen (or corpses of husbands past--hard to tell from the street).  Outside, (I assume he is her son, or maybe grandson) a thirty something man with a babyface, leans over the popped hood of a car.  He is friendly, but he does not give an impression of great intellect; he always shouts at the dogs when they bark at us.  This charming tableau has on many occasions set my imagination in motion.  I have outlined a whole short story about a drug-dealing son selling crack from his widowed mother's affluent, but deteriorated, home.  This particular house and its inhabitants have intrigued me as long as we've lived in the neighbourhood.

Last night, after I finished my run, I rounded the corner by this house on my way home.  I was sweaty and tired and thinking about some mashed sweet potato with way too much butter in it,  that was waiting for me in the fridge.  I noticed that the crazy dogs were in the front yard when they began their lunatic barking.  Suddenly one of those awful dogs was on the sidewalk growling and snarling at me.  The dog was small, and my first thought was, "oh, it's just a puppy."  And then it lunged and bit my knee cap.  I was furious.  I swore at the dog and the owner in English because I am not bilingual enough for furious swearing in Spanish.  And it's funny, because I thought about needing to say it in Spanish in the half second before I began (how do you say what the ....).  I didn't even try; I just let loose in English.  If there is ever a moment when swearing is called for, it's when someone's stupid, hysterical dog bites you.  The guy was very apologetic and hit the dog (which I'm sure does not help the situation).  I walked home wondering if my knee was injured, because dog teeth tearing at my kneecap had not felt good.

My knee seems fine; a big bruise and a puncture.  It feels sore but not injured.  Thankfully it was a small dog and even more thankfully it wasn't the whole pack!

opinions

Panama the Beautiful

Earlier this year, during some mining protests, the Panamanian President said that foreigners did not have the right to protest in Panama.  It was bluster designed to undermine the environmental movement (our country will not be run by foreigners!). It really bothered me at the time and it’s something I’ve been thinking about a lot.  It’s obviously problematic, as a foreigner,  to join a protest or to make loud public political statements.  You have not had a truly expat experience until someone has dismissed your opinion because “you’re not from here.  You don’t know.”

Clearly foreign involvement in local issues is something Panamanians are sensitive about.  As an English Canadian, I have never thought too deeply about sovereignty (I was still in high school during Meech Lake).  But here in Panama, sovereignty is something people are passionate about (Panamanians are rightfully proud to be administrating the Panama Canal after ninety-six years of U.S. control).  I don’t know how many times, while taking a taxi in the Canal zone, the driver has commented to me, “Panamanians weren’t allowed over here, with the Americans.”  It is quite an incredible circumstance to have in living memory and foreigners need to be sensitive to it.

I was looking at a Facebook page for some local activists recently (all comments and statements were in Spanish as far as I could see) and someone had posted the comment, “gringada” (that would translate as, foreign, and not in a nice way).  With that one comment they dismissed the thoughtful posts of many people.  It occurred to me, that expats visibly participating in political activity here could actually undermine their own cause.  I don’t think this means foreigners should stick to wringing their hands and complaining about the locals within the expat community (I’m pretty sure enough of this goes on already). It is disagreeable, but there is a reason the President can so quickly cut down his opposition with the accusation of foreign involvement--it resonates with the Panamanian people.  Expats need to think carefully about their political involvement.

While possibly not as satisfying as a protest march, or an indignant comment on a web site, there are other quieter ways to effect change.  The other day, when I was running in Clayton, I saw a woman (I’m assuming foreign) picking garbage along the road.  I’m sure she was disgusted by all the garbage people throw out of their cars and she was doing something about it.  It’s not only that she was cleaning up, the image of her, with her trash pick and bag, high-vis vest and disarming smile, I’m sure, it had an impact on people.  By being there, and doing what she was doing, she was raising awareness.  Garbage-picking-lady in Clayton, you are awesome, you are changing the world. What I am advocating, is living our beliefs, if you see something that seems wrong do what you can to fix it.  It is not necessary teach, or complain loudly, it is necessary to do what is right.

Seemingly small actions have an impact on people.  I teach adult ESL classes and I always remember one student, who told me as if it were the most incredible thing, how his Swiss boss walked to work every day.  Now this seems like a small thing, but in a city where pedestrians are seen as the lowest form of life, walking is radical.  I’m sure, to this man, walking was obvious, but to my student it was incredible.  If you act according to your beliefs people will notice and it does make a difference.

I love this country and this city.  Yes, there are things that I believe should change and changes I don’t agree with.  But it is not my place to change this city, or to influence opinion.  I can be a part of change through my actions though.  In the face of corruption and cynicism, being a good human, and acting according to principles seems like not nearly enough.  But having thought about it a lot, I think it’s the only way.  So walk to work, pick garbage, volunteer, start a recycling programs.  There is a great deal of work to be done.

This just bit me

A bug that looks like a little pile of trash just bit me on the shoulder.  I have no idea how to describe it to identify it.  "bug that looks like tiny pile of trash" did not give me anything on google.  The joys of living in the tropics!

all-inclusive

The kids had a week off school (a break between terms) and we wanted to do something fun and get out of town.  We had some travel points on the credit card so we decided to try one of the all-inclusive places.  We usually rent some kind of cabin at a quiet, less popular beach and cook for ourselves.  We usually avoid the crowds.  We like adventures and to be off the beaten path.  We'd never been to an all-inclusive before and the kids were excited; I decided it was a different kind of adventure and was determined to go into it with an open mind.

When we arrived, the lobby was crowded and there was a pre-registration line (they gave you a number, like at the meat counter).  Somehow, when I saw all those people my mood plummeted and all my negative ideas about resorts came rushing in (so much for an open mind).  We had to wait more than an hour.  I tried to shake my mean mood, but I felt miserable.  How was I going to handle lining up with all these people for the next three days?  I knew I was being awful and petty, but I couldn't stop; I think the reality of the all-inclusive was hitting me a little hard.  When we finally got into our ground level (basically basement)  room (this did not cheer me up) I knew needed to do something or I was going to poison my kid's holiday.  I grabbed my runners and ipod and ran the curmudgeon out of my system.  Running relaxes me and honestly, once I got out on my own, I couldn't help but notice how pretty the place was.

We had a nice time.  We read and chatted and napped.  The kids swam and swam.  It was relaxing and really one of the laziest holidays we've ever had.  We didn't do any hiking or snorkeling or anything more strenuous than walk from our room to the pool.  It was good.

I have to admit that I didn't really like the food.  It was all that kind of chicken fingerish, generic, industrial kitchen, kind of food.  I understand that there probably is no other way to feed that many people.  I am not very tempted by food prepared by people in surgical masks and plastic aprons.  Although I'm sure it's all very sanitary, I do not equate hairnets with yummy.  But there was always fresh fruit so I didn't complain (too much).

It was fine for three days, but not not my favourite beach trip.  My kids might tell you different though, they really liked it.

miley

Not many big North American stars play concerts in Panama; Panama is small and the venue is not very nice.  So it's always a big deal when somebody does come and people get pretty excited.  But a few weeks ago when we heard Miley Cyrus was coming to town I didn't think much of it.  My husband said "you should take the girls," and I probably shrugged.  My girls are not huge Miley Cyrus fans.  Sure they've watched Hannah Montana and heard her songs on the radio, and my eleven year old is pretty fascinated by Miley's recent tattoos (we have some mother-daughter bonding over celebrity gossip--neither one of us can resist it).  But the expense and effort of a school night concert did not seem necessary to me.  My husband on the other hand, decided that they should go to the concert (he is the fun parent, if he could, he would take them to every concert and event that came to town).  I thought he would forget about it, he's a pretty busy guy and the girls were not begging to go or anything.

Then, in an odd convergence of events, he and I were at the mall together, on a weekday morning, doing an errand.  There was a big Miley Cyrus promotion going on: if you spent fifty dollars at the mall, concert tickets were half price.  Well, that was all the encouragement my husband needed, and within minutes I was in line with a lot of other parents for Miley Cyrus tickets.  Despite all my school-night, mom, trepidations and my total lack of desire to attend this event, I decided to just roll with it--I never do this kind of tacky, over-indulgent thing for my kids, and I thought it would be fun to surprise them.

So that is how is how I ended up escorting four preteen girls to a Miley Cyrus concert.

The concert was full of little girls and tiredish moms thumbing their blackberries.  I have to confess that I was fascinated by the spectacle.  Miley Cyrus is eighteen (I kind of suspect she feels much older) and her fans are mostly girls who've watched her as Hannah Montana.  Miley Cyrus is working hard to shed the whole Disney, teen-star image and cross over to regular, adult stardom.  However, her current fans are mostly girls, and stardom for a young woman is all about the male-gaze.  So there she was, in her leather underwear, covering "Smells Like Teen Spirit" for a bunch of twelve-year-olds in Central America and I could not look away.  Awkward  contradictions are my favourite! (I can't help it, I went to art school).  She did a Joan Jett medley complete with "Cherry Bomb" and "Bad Reputation" (two songs I love).  She sang her songs (how awful is that "Party in the USA" song?).  My girls seemed to enjoy it.  All in all it was a successful evening and not nearly as bad as I thought it would be.

rainy season

The rainy season is upon us.  This year it rained through the dry season.  But, as if to demarcate the official start of the rainy season, the weather has been sopping; jeans and towels no longer dry on the line.  I used to think of rain as refreshing and cleansing and definitely cool if not cold.  But it's as hot a ever when it rains in the day, and actually it seems hotter.  When we walked home from school the sun was out but there was still a fine mist of rain.  It was steamy; the air felt like thick, wet gauze.  The three of us arrived home soaked in sweat and red-faced, exclaiming at the heat.  This is why air conditioning was invented.

When it rains in the afternoon it is torrential.  I am grateful to be at home and not out somewhere struggling with an umbrella.  A lake forms in the backyard.  The streets fill up with water in places where the storm drains are clogged with garbage.  It does not surprise me that this is the start of the flu season here.  Between the constant fogging for mosquitos, and the rats looking for  dry homes, it feels terribly insalubrious.  This goes on for a few days, the dampness invading everything.  The pages of my book feel clammy; there's a rash on the inside of my elbow...

And then the sun comes out.

The sun comes out and this incredibly, lush and green world sparkles and shines.  We bask in the park despite the mosquitos.  These glorious sunny afternoons are cherished not just by us, the park is bustling with families.  Shadows are magical after days of cloudy dullness.  Light filtering through trees is positively miraculous.  We are just at the start of the rainy season and these desultory, sparkling, sunny days will buoy us through to December.

the cats that live at my house

About a year ago I was on my way to the park when I heard the cries of a young kitten; insistant and constant.  I looked and found her in the garbage.  There are quite a few street cats on my street and I assumed she had just gotten separated from her mother.   When I was heading back it was starting to rain, and she was still there crying pitifully.  I tried to grab her but she ran off.  The next day, on the way to the park with my girls, the kitten was still there and crying loud, constant meows, I don't now how the neighbours could stand it.  I told the girls if she was still their on the way home, we would take her.  This of course was easier said than done.  Even though she was tiny and half starved, it took three adults and three kids to catch her (she bit one guy trying to help us).

Hungry, dirty, and full of fleas Cookie came into our lives.  She was too small for solid food when we first brought her home.

But within a couple of weeks she was eating kibble.  As a little kitten, she spent a lot of time with the kids, I would often find her sleeping in the doll house while the girls played beside.  She has grown into a lovely cat and we all adore her, even my, not very pet enthusiastic, husband.

A few months after we found Cookie, as I was getting up to start lunches and breakfast, I coud hear a kitten crying.  I opened the front door just in time to see a tabby kitten running away.  On our way home from school I told the girls to keep an eye out for him.  We saw no sign of him until we got to our house and there he was meowing under the hedge.  This is how Mowgli came to live with us.

Mowgli was very wild.  Already able to eat solid food, he was not that hungry and the flea bath traumatized him.  He spent the first week under the cupboards.  I told the girls we'd take him to get fixed and release him back to the street; he seemed so miserable and scared.  But somehow he came around.  He doesn't like the kids as much as Cookie does but he's very affectionate.

Cats are really not ideal pets in the tropics because they kill stuff, and there are so many little creatures for them to hunt here.  Every lizard and bird that they kill is a tragedy and I really wish they didn't.  But Mowgli killed a rat that ran into the house the other night (that was me shrieking, up on the kitchen counter) and that seemed much more felicitous than tragic to me.  There are rats here and when the rain starts they try to move in where it's dry.  So I forgive dear Cookie and Mowgli their bloodthirsty ways.

Occasionally since I've been here in Latin America, I've encountered some pretty incredible superstition about cats.  I remember in Costa Rica, this one woman telling me how cats can steal your soul when you sleep and she was not joking.  She seemed to attribute all crib death to cats.  A lot of people in the countryside seemed to think cats were evil, dangerous and dirty.  You really only saw cats as pets in foreigners' houses.  The city is different, and here in Panama I've met quite a few people with pet cats.  So I was a little surprised when my daughter encountered the whole evil cat thing in the playground.

There's this girl we sometimes see at the playground, who verges on bully.  She's more feared than liked and honestly seems really unhappy.  I keep a close watch when my kids are playing with her, but kids know, there is always wariness when she approaches the group.  The other day she told my daughter in hushed, scandalized tones that "cats are the only animal that isn't in the bible."  This information was supposed to make my daughter feel bad or deviant for having pet cats.  The stupidity of it just kind of baffled her.  'What is that supposed to mean?"  We laughed all the way home to our devil cats.

5 fun places to go with kids around Panama City

A couple of things you should know, I am not talking about places designed specifically for children, rather places that will appeal to the whole family.   Also, Panama City is hot and humid and you probably want to plan outdoor activities for earlyish morning and late afternoon (you will end up red-faced and soaked in sweat if you hike in Parque Metropolitano at high noon--trust me, I know).  In no particular order (and I'm sure this is not the definitive list), here are five great places to take kids in Panama City that are not the mall:
Parque Metropolitano

This is a beautiful park right in the city.  It is called the "lung of Panama."  On a recent morning visit we saw monkeys and a Motmot.  It always seems incredible to me that these beautiful animals are just right there (who needs zoos?).  The trails are all easy and well marked; it is possible to walk the network of trails in under three hours.  There are some of the best city views from the top lookout point (this is also a great spot to stop for a picnic).   The park is also home to a rehabilitation center; when we were there the other day, they were bringing in a tranquilized deer that had wandered out of the park and into the city.

The Causeway

The Amador Causeway has 5 kilometres of bike path/walkway along the Pacific entrance of the Canal.  It is possible to rent bikes and there are places to get ice cream and cold drinks (as well as lots of restaurants).  You will see spectacular city views and you can watch ships entering the canal.  There is usually a decent breeze on the causeway, making it a great place for kite flying.  The Smithsonian has a small nature centre on Punta Culebra, where there are touch pools (you can hold a starfish) and other marine exhibits.  Something I am very excited about is the opening (at the end of this year) of the Museo de Biodiversidad.  This natural history museum and botanical garden was designed by Frank Gehry and is interesting to look at under construction; it will be a great addition to the city.

Miraflores

Unless your kids are fascinated by feats of engineering (and I know some kids are), this is probably a place you'll only want to visit once.  Miraflores has a very good museum explaining the workings of the canal.  There is also a viewing deck to watch the locks in action.  The museum has some good hands-on exhibits that children will enjoy (a simulation of driving a boat through the canal).  It is one the most visited tourist spots in Panama, but with good reason.

Casco Viejo

The old city is beautiful.  The cobblestone streets and plazas around every corner make for some fun exploring.  You can get fancy ice cream or just a raspado (snow cone).  There are little shops and interesting buildings in various stages of repair and disrepair.  Casco Viejo is the cultural heart of Panama City and there is some interesting street art to look at as well as galleries to duck into.  Casco Viejo is great for a couple of hours of wandering on quiet afternoon.

Kiwanis Park in Clayton

I chose Kiwanis over Parque Omar because you can cycle on the loop around Kiwanis.  Parque Omar is a beautiful park but you can't cycle there.  If you don't have your own transportation, Parque Omar is probably a better choice than Kiwanis (taxis to Clayton can be difficult).   Kiwanis is a large sports complex in the canal zone (it's beside Ciudad de Saber/City of Knowledge) in Clayton.  There are soccer fields and baseball diamonds, a running/cycling path,  a gym, and a full-sized pool ($1 to use the pool!).  The pool facilities are clean and well maintained and there is a kiddie wading pool beside the big pool.  There are some beautiful trees on the perimeter of the park.  The park itself has picnic shelters and a playground.  The park gets quite busy on Sunday afternoons, but the rest of the week it's  quiet.  We taught both of my daughters to ride their bikes in this park.